Old News from November 2003
- Posted Tuesday, November 25, 2003 by Josh I did these last thursday, mainly because a couple weeks ago I got a weird vibration under deceleration while on the freeway. I however could not reproduce the vibration to troubleshoot further. I had the axles repacked back in the 2001. They still clicked a little bit afterwards, so they really should have been replaced. I picked up a set of rebuilt axles for cvaxles.com for $55 per axle. They are very good, have lifetime warranty on the axles & build axles for rally cars. Everyone I've talked to that has used them, has been very happy. My dealings with them was the same. Only thing you should mention is that you would like them to include new axle nuts & roll pins. They normally don't include these, but if you ask, they will.
Changing the axles was initially a pain. I couldn't get the axle nut off, (32mm) I had to take it to a buddy's shop to get the nut off. Once I got the nut off and figured out the best method to remove the joint, it wasn't bad.
There are a couple ways you can give yourself enough room to change the joint. Some say remove the ball joint, some remove the bolts on the strut, or remove the front bolt on the control arm. I used the strut bolt method after discovering the ball joints were rusted and nasty. I scribed where the spindle and strut was, so my alignment should be pretty close. You really should have it aligned if you take the strut bolts out. I was told removing the front control arm bolt is not that hard either.
Once the axle nut is off and you have enough play, you simply drive the roll pins out with a punch (yes you need a punch) and slide the axle out.
Here's what pics I got, much more limited this time. You can see on the one outer boot how it's squished together. I'm not sure what happened there.
- Posted Tuesday, November 25, 2003 by Josh I'm a little late in posting this, but I finally got around to replacing the injectors two weekends ago. I had been putting this off for two reasons, one I didn't have a garage, and two I was waiting for info on converting the fuel lines to parallel. After getting zero response back from the one guy I decided the benefits on a normally aspirated engine would not be that significant.
What I ended up doing is swapping in a set of balanced & blue-printed injectors from a 92 legacy. The injectors are different from my originals, and therefore I had to use the fuel rails from the 92 legacy. Other then the rails and injectors, I used all the old parts. I pulled the intake manifold off to do the work, which made it easier, plus I wanted to replace the intake manifold gaskets, because I was pretty sure they were leaking.
All and all it wasn't that bad, there was quite a bit of parts and you needed to keep track of everything, but the work was not that hard.
I need to wait and see how mileage is, but the car idles much more rock solid and does have some better pickup, especially in the upper rpms. I'd probably contribute that to better flow on the injectors and leaking intake gaskets.
Here are some pics of the work, enjoy
Seafoam & 4-wire O2 sensor
- Posted Wednesday, November 12, 2003 by Josh Well I did some work this weekend. I ran some engine cleaner called Seafoam through the PCV valve to clean out the combustion chamber of carbon, etc. It smoked quite a bit, and did seem to help things a little. Nothing super drastic, but it did seem to have more smoothness and pep in the mid range.
Other thing I did was replace my OEM 3-wire oxygen sensor with a 4-wire generic one. For those that aren't aware, the three wire sensors have one wire for the sensor, one 12v+ for the heater, and one ground for the heater. The sensor input is grounded through the exhaust. On the older cars with rusted exhaust, the grounding connection is not that good. The 4-wire sensor has a direct ground for the sensor. The generic sensor I got is from Oxygensensors.com The one I got was a generic walker 4-wire sensor. Part # is 250-24000. The results were actually quite good. I don't think the car has ever idled this good, and mid-range power is better and smoother where the ECU is still using the O2 sensor's input for a/f calcs.
Steering rack bushings & HVAC controls
- Posted Monday, November 3, 2003 by Josh I threw on a set of Whiteline polyurethane steering bushings. They weren't quite as much a pain in the butt as the motor mounts, but they weren't the easiest to get in. The thrust bushing was a pain to get out and in. I had to bend some of the lines slightly to get the bracket out. The other bushing actually didn't sit correctly the first time. They did quicken steering response a little. I think if I would have had a quicker steering rack it would have made a bigger difference.
I had been having problems with the HVAC buttons not working. I had to whack the dash to get it to work. I took out the black trim around the dash, pulled the connector for the HVAC controls, sprayed some cleaner in there, put some di-electric grease on it, and put a small piece of plastic underneath the connector to help shim it. So far it's worked perfectly.
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